The Grass is Always Greener: Biocouture

An innovative approach to textile technology is unfolding with this technique that harnesses nature’s forces.
“BioCouture is a research project harnessing nature to propose a radical future fashion vision. We are investigating the use of microbial-cellulose, grown in a laboratory, to produce clothing. Our ultimate goal is to literally grow a dress in a vat of liquid…The material is nearest in feel to a vegetable leather and, like your vegetable peelings, it can be safely composted when you no longer want it.”

Suzanne Lee is Director of the project and a Senior Research Fellow at Central Saint Martins, University of the Arts London. She is collaborating with scientists to unite design with cutting edge bio and nano-technologies.

BioCouture is investigating the use of microbes to grow a textile biomaterial. Certain bacteria will spin microfibrils of pure cellulose during fermentation which form a dense layer that can be harvested and dried. To a sugary green tea solution they add a mixed culture of bacterial cellulose, yeasts and other microorganisms to produce a flexible cellulose mat. The bacteria feed on the sugar and spin fine threads of cellulose. As these start to stick together they form a skin on the liquids surface. After two to three weeks, when it is approximately 1.5cm thick, they remove the cellulose skin from the growth bath. They can then either use it wet to mold onto a 3D form, like a dress shape, or dry it flat and then cut and sew it into a garment.
Lee is the author of ‘Fashioning The Future: tomorrow’s wardrobe’ published by Thames & Hudson.http://www.biocouture.co.uk/



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Dream On: Cartier L’odyssee

In what surely has to be one of the most beautiful shorts ever, CARTIER unleashes its world on film to mesmerizing effect. Two years in the making, it somehow combines the panoramic directing of Scorcese’s “Hugo” and Narnia fantasy amongst other darker sources. Relax and loose yourself.

Arrivederci YSL: Stefano Pilati’s Last Collection

Although I’m not one to post fashion shows (as there are many other sources) I thought it was fitting to show Stefano Pilati’s last show before the return of Hedi Slimane to YSL (albeit for the first time for women).
The show is IMMACULATE and definitely the best from the house under his watch. From the stunning makeup to the sinuous chainmail dresses and vertiginous metallic heel shoes. It’ll be interesting to see how this is topped next season…

Chain mail dress_YSL F/W 2012

Rick Owens + Michele Lamy Unplugged

I’ve always admired free spirits as the ultimate expression of life. Perhaps because I feel the conservative constraints imposed on everyone rather acutely. Take for example the incredible fusion of Rick Owens and Michele Lamy, locked in creatively and otherwise. A fascinating look at their dynamics and of course, their incredible works.
I have included some stills as I was not able to insert this video from “Another Mag” but have this link here:
http://www.anothermag.com/video/embed/148?shareurl=http://www.anothermag.com/exclusives/rick-owens
More: Rick Owens


I Can See Right Through You: Transparency S/S2012

As the macrotrend culture of transparency evolves around us like Wikileaks, Facebook revelations, reality TV, it is only inevitable that fashion should reflect that ideal. Although sheer looks have been around forever, it has not had general acceptance off the beach. A perfectly suitable place are accessories like these little gems for the coming year.


Daphne Guiness: Life as Stage…F.I.T. Exhibit

The Honorable Daphne Suzanne Diana Joan Guinness was born in 1967, the daughter of brewery heir, Jonathan Guinness, Lord Moyne, and French beauty, Suzanne Lisney. Her paternal grandmother was Diana Mitford, one of the legendary Mitford sisters. In 1987, at the age of nineteen, Daphne married Spyros Niarchos. After her divorce in 1999, Daphne resumed her maiden name, and over the past decade has emerged on the world’s stage an extraordinary fashion creature.
If anyone has the ultimate wardrobe, it is Ms. Guiness. She obtained ALL of Isabella Blow’s pieces and also has pieces by the late, great Alexander McQueen. The high priestess of high (very high) fashion.
Daphne Guinness
Special Exhibitions Gallery
September 16 through January 7, 2012


Yohji Yamamoto : Back to Black

If you haven’t seen the new screening of “This is my dream”, you still have a chance this fall in various cities: London, Berlin, Milan, Dubai and Tel Aviv. One of the very few designers that continues to astound with his mix of dystopian poetry and grace, Yohji Yamamoto reveals his inner soul and approach to his travails. In our new series, DESIGN MANIFESTO, we will explore the idiosyncratic methods and ethos behind notable creatives.
Here is a snippet of the film. Amazing. More info here: “This is my Dream”

YOHJI YAMAMOTO: THIS IS MY DREAM from Huge Conglomerate on Vimeo.

Air Conditioned Clothing “Kuchofuku” a rage in Japan

Not exactly the most aesthetically pleasing garment around, it is nevertheless a HUGE hit this summer as the Japanese avoid air conditioning and other mod cons amid power shortages in Japan after the devastating March 11 earthquake and tsunami.
Two electric fans in the jacket can be controlled to draw air in at different speeds, giving the garment a puffed-up look. But this has not deterred those happy to be cool rather than “hot” when it comes to fashion.The fans in the Kuchofuku jacket are connected to a lithium-ion battery pack that lasts for 11 hours on a single charge, consuming only a fraction of the power used by conventional air-conditioning.A standard air-conditioned jacket sells for around 11,000 yen ($140).

World’s First 3-D Print clothing item

Exciting new technologies like 3-D printing has been used to create the world’s first piece of clothing, otherwise known as N.12. Apart from the lukewarm name, it is a functional contoured bikini…
The N12 bikini is for sale, but quite pricey at this stage. It costs around US$200-300 for each part of the bikini and can be ordered at Continuum Shop. Hopefully prices will fall as 3D printed clothing gains popularity.

Order here

N12.bikini – Intro Video from Continuum Fashion on Vimeo.

SLEEPING COAT


By Jude Garvey
We know how much you love spending time in the great outdoors but it can get tiring (and a little annoying) when you have to lug all your sleeping and camping gear with you. What if you could carry all your sleeping gear in one handy package? That’s the thinking behind the Inflatable Sleeping Coat. The design concept by Lin Tsui-Wei not only keeps you dry and warm during the day – it inflates to provide a comfortable sleeping bag for when it’s time for bed.

You probably wouldn’t win any fashion awards in this sleeping coat – but who’s going to see you in the middle of the woods anyway? Besides, this design is all about comfort and function – not looks. Not only does it protect you from harsh winds, it is also waterproof and lightweight enough to wear during the day if required. There are also multiple pockets to store and protect all your personal items.If you’ve camped in a particularly rocky spot, you can detach the lower part of the coat to make a mini-mattress – just the right size for sitting on during the evening meal. When it’s time for bed, the coat can be inflated to make a warm, snug and comfortable sleeping bag.

If the weather looks unpredictable, you can attach the bottom half of the jacket to protect your legs from wind and rain. Plus, the convenience of a dual purpose piece of equipment, makes it perfect if you don’t have a lot of space to spare.

The Sleeping Coat was an entrant in the 2009 Red Dot Awards and won a Design Concept Red Dot Award in the Protection category.

Great idea – we’d love to see it in production.